Main > Building & fixing > Tools
Only when tools are pushed to their limits do they reveal what they're really worth.
kellyjones00 (593)
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Main > Building & fixing > Tools > Storage
When storing metal tools in metal toolboxes, spray a thin film of water-repellent lubricant over the metal tools to prevent rusting by condensation. Alternatively, wrap them in oil-soaked rags, or in wooden boxes on a bed of sawdust.
kellyjones00 (593)
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Main > Building & fixing > Tools > Storage
Store electronic tools in sealed plastic tubs, or covered in plastic sheet, to prevent water damage.
kellyjones00 (593)
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Main > Building & fixing > Tools > Storage
Declutter the workbench and floor area nearby for safety and ease of use. A first aid kit and fire blanket should be immediately handy. Frequently-used hand tools, safety gear, and fasteners should be closest to the workbench. Furthest away from the work bench should be hazardous and dangerous items like poisons, flammable chemicals, electricity boards and the like.
kellyjones00 (593)
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Main > Building & fixing > Tools > Cleaning > Saw blades
By cutting greenwood, resin or "pitch" will quickly build up on the teeth of a saw. The disc will heat up faster, not cut well, and be prone to warping. Take the blade off and clean the resin off while still soft, before much use heats and hardens it. Soak in mineral turps for several hours, then use a plastic implement like a plastic paint scraper or nylon scourer to rub off the gunge, and do not use metal scrapers or files.
kellyjones00 (593)
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Main > Building & fixing > Tools > Saws
Choosing a power saw for house building:
A 185mm diameter blade on a portable circular saw with adjustable cutting depth and mitre angles up to 45° is fine for a small gable-roofed building with timbers up to 50mm deep. But a hipped-roof building will require many highly accurate mitre cuts, possibly higher than 45° bevels on hip jack rafters, and therefore a larger diameter than 185mm blade even if the timbers are still only 50mm deep.
kellyjones00 (593)
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Main > Building & fixing > Tools > Saws
Blades for power saws:
- The blade with more teeth (e.g. >24T) cuts hardwood, or creates a smoother finish, or cuts across the grain. Less teeth are used for ripping and softwood.
- Choose a blade with regular inlets cut between teeth to help dispel the build-up of heat, and prevent warping. Holes in the blade also do this.
- While a basic "curling wave" tooth design is fine for softwood, a shallow V-cut in each tooth, like the valley of a cusp, is better for hardwood.
kellyjones00 (593)
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Main > Building & fixing > Tools > Body-care
If using a hammer frequently, don't forget to stretch the hands and fingers, as well as other major muscles.
kellyjones00 (593)
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Main > Building & fixing > Tools > Body-care
If the angle of a nail is hard to get to, try switching the hammer to your other, weaker hand, with support at the heel of the hammer by your stronger hand.
kellyjones00 (593)
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Main > Building & fixing > Tools > Clamps
General tips for clamps:
- The strongest grip is provided by metal screwing clamps, while fast adjustment is provided by plastic sliding clamps but less grip strength.
- Cheap plastic clamps break under normal pressure.
- A ball-in-socket joint at one grip allows for some variation in the angle of the two pieces gripped, where they are not parallel.
kellyjones00 (593)
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Main > Building & fixing > Tools > Hammers
Multiple uses for a claw hammer:
- Push and remove nails
- Tighten wing-nut screws (e.g. tensioners on strap bracing)
- Measure distances roughly
- Loosen a rusted screw or bolt
- More gently persuade timber into place than using a mallet or block hammer
kellyjones00 (593)
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