Main > Automotive > Economy
Buy fuel midweek, rather than at weekends or during holidays.
thesource (378)
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Main > Automotive > Economy
Keep your car tuned up. Cars in poor running condition use more fuel.
thesource (378)
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Main > Automotive > Economy
Plan your trips so as to avoid unnecessary driving. Use a GPS so that you always know where you are going. You will also be less likely to have an accident.
thesource (378)
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Main > Automotive > Economy
Air conditioning will consume fuel, so if you must use it, run it at a low setting. Never run your air conditioner with a window open.
thesource (378)
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Main > Automotive > Economy
Tyre pressure: if your tyre pressure is too low, you will get more drag, which will use more fuel.
thesource (378)
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Main > Automotive > Economy
Accelerate and decelerate slowly. Keep a good distance between yourself and the car in front to act as a buffer.
thesource (378)
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Main > Automotive > Economy
Change your work start time to avoid gridlock. Stop-and-go traffic hurts your gas mileage. If you do get stuck in a traffic jam, turn your engine off rather than keeping the motor idling for a long time.
thesource (378)
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Main > Automotive > Economy
Arrange car pools with co-workers to share the cost of commuting to work.
thesource (378)
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Main > Automotive > Economy
Walk, bike or run to your intended location whenever possible.
thesource (378)
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Main > Automotive > Mechanics > Carburettors
If your carbuerretor starts to behave differently in colder weather (splutters when the engine is switched off, stalls at idle), that's due to atmospheric changes that affect the humidity in the air. You can get it retuned at a specialist because they use a machine which takes the surrounding air into account.
myxlfidian (150)
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Main > Automotive > Mechanics > Air-conditioning
Get a quote from an air-conditioning mechanic who will allow you to bring the parts in seperately. Armed with the knowledge of what parts need to be removed, do it yourself. Usually its just the compressor, discharge hose, fan and maybe condenser. Take them in yourself and get them reconditioned/replaced, then refit the new ones yourself. Take the car back again for a regas.
You can save huge amounts on labour through this, but preferably find a repair outfit that doesn't mind doing it this way and is nearby. Also, don't take it on without a full catalogue of tools as you need some odd ones for this work.
myxlfidian (150)
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Main > Automotive > Economy
Airconditioning uses 11-12% more fuel (i.e. 300km per tank instead of 350km). You will find you need less fuel in winter due to not using AC, less evaporation from the tank and denser fuel when you fill up (less expanded).
myxlfidian (150)
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Main > Automotive > Economy
Window tinting that cuts out heat and UV radiation has the added bonus of allowing your airconditioner to operate at a lower intensity.
If you notice that your window tinting isn't as effective in winter, it's because you may have a film designed to mainly screen out heat and UV, not visible light. Due to the reduced presence of heat and UV, the tint doesn't appear to be doing as much, but you can still see it within the glass if you have it in a garage with a fluorescent light on. These tints can look quite clear in winter.
Ultra black tints (the almost black window types) largely screen out only visible light. Being black, they absorb rather than reflect heat. They are mainly for show.
myxlfidian (150)
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Main > Automotive > Economy
Avoid a speeding fine or parking ticket: If you have had a clean driving record for the last ten years you may be able to get out of having to pay a parking ticket or speeding fine just by writing a letter to the appropriate authority.
thesource (378)
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Main > Automotive > Economy
If your licence is suspended for several months, you can tell the transport department you lost your licence, and keep your licence. You will still be suspended, but at least will have a licence to show if you get pulled over. Otherwise, it's curtains for you from that moment if you continue to drive. This is not technically illegal as people are always losing things and finding them again. However, driving would be illegal and also risky as you would have no insurance if you were in any kind of accident.
myxlfidian (150)
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Main > Automotive > Economy
When you fill up your tank, wait until it is almost empty so you can get the maximum value from your 4c, 8c or 10c a litre off voucher. You do get a proportional discount on non full litre amounts (i.e. 54.75 litres will get you a 3c discount off the .75 litre).
myxlfidian (150)
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Main > Automotive > Mechanics > Engine mounts
Genuine or Aftermarket?
The eternal dilemma of the car part buyer, but particularly critical with engine mounts. The reason is the quality of the rubber. You might say why should I buy a genuine mount that is 6 or 7 times more expensive than an aftermarket copy, but when the genuine lasts 10 years and the aftermarket 6 months, the economics become pretty clear. Try to get an actual grade for the rubber quality because when something supports an engine, this is critical in its durability - there is a scale for rubber strength. Do not be surprised if you don't get more than six months from a cheap aftermarket rubber mount.
One of the problems is that if you try to go for polyurethane, it will not absorb vibrations as well as rubber, transferring more shock to the chassis back to the engine itself. Polyurethane engine mounts are only viable for high-powered engines that need greater tethering or where an engine mount is too small for what it supports, due to poor original design. By that I mean a small diameter mount (<8cm) supporting a 2.6 litre engine for example. These will often break years before the larger side mounts (>15cm diameter and with thicker rubber).
myxlfidian (150)
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Main > Automotive > Mechanics > Panel Beating
Things Panel Beaters might miss:
Some things a panel beater missed while fixing the right hand rear quarter panel, and chassis rail underbody area recently:
1) Boot badges or decals. He gave me the car back with none of its three badges on the boot lid. Make sure you don't miss these if you get any boot work done. It's better to buy new ones or prize good ones off at a wreckers than use the original usually as they don't always restick well.
2)Interior light activation switch: The quarter panel has a wire in it that activates the interior light when the right hand rear door is opened. The panel beater didn't connect this wire within the panel he changed.
3) Towbar: This one was more my mistake. Not having given him the towbar, he didnt' make sure it fitted. It was several mm out from the rear impact, so I had to take it back with the towbar and get it adjusted to be able to take the towbar some time later.
4)Extra parts: The panel beater did not give me my rear seat (back part) and rubber spacer for my rear exhaust muffler. I had to specifically ask for them from him.
5) Trim clips: The panel beater didn't have all the trim clips for a trim bar on the rear quarter panel he changed so instead of ordering the clips in, he just used automotive sealant on the holes he missed. Later I had to remove the sealant when I got new clips, which removed some of the paint as well.
myxlfidian (150)
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Main > Automotive > Mechanics > Shock absorbers
Shock Absorbers and Engines:
I've recently discovered that a pair of new front shock absorbers or struts, can actually have a large effect on the functioning of your engine. The result achieved is smoother engine operation owing to less shock getting to the engine. Older engines in particular do not handle shocks, bumps, jolts and lurches very well. A new set of front shocks means that most of the shocks are absorbed before they get to the engine, allowing it to perform better. This produces not only better fuel economy but also more sustained and smoother power generation, because the engine is not as interrupted as previously. Engines need relative stability to be able to output sustained power generation. They cannot take disturbances without producing a corresponding reduction in smooth output of power.
myxlfidian (150)
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Main > Automotive > Mechanics > Water leaks
Hissing noises: At first this noise sounds strange, but it is almost always caused by a leaking radiator or water pump hose. Squeeze each hose quite strongly when you hear this noise and if the noise stops or changes significantly, the hose you squeezed has some kind of leak. Duct tape may not assist here if the leak is strong enough, so seek a replacement hose asap. Most radiator hoses are molded so you might need to get a genuine part from your car's manufacturer (they sometimes do stock molded hoses from 20 years or older cars) if aftermarket versions are not available. It is inadvisable to use a non-molded hose.
myxlfidian (150)
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Main > Automotive > Mechanics > Air-conditioning
If you are converting from older R12 refrigerant gas (pre-1995 or so) to current R134a gas, be aware that unless the system is thoroughly flushed you can expect a performance degradation. You may get a drop in the expected cooling level even if it is professional done, due to inherent problems with this conversion. You can't use R12 anymore because it's illegal but some places still do it on the sly - ask around because that's the best option. Change your receiver/dryer (filter) cannister every two years and get a regas if the cooling is not strong enough.
Don't be disappointed if a regas with the new gas doesn't produce the cooling results you were expecting. This will improve over time. An airconditioning overhaul I had done two years ago hardly seemed to cool the car at all for the first 8 months or so, but with regular use, the system becomes twice as powerful and is now an instant cooler of the interior even in high temperatures (> 35 degrees).
myxlfidian (150)
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Main > Automotive > Mechanics > Engine mounts
Always leave an engine sitting on at least two engine mounts at all times, regardless of which ones. If you don't, it can be very hard to get it back on all four mounts. Never idle a car unless it is sitting on three engine mounts.
myxlfidian (150)
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Main > Automotive > Mechanics > Instrument panel
If your fuel guage still doesn't work after changing the instrument panel, it's probably the fuel level indicator in the tank that stopped working. It will need to be changed over, and does not require removing the tank itself. Don't bother going to a wreckers if the car is over 8 years old as all of the indicators are probably malfunctioning by then. Get a new one from the car's manufacturer or on eBay if you're lucky. Though the cost may be high, the reduction in stress from not knowing how much is in your tank will be worth it.
myxlfidian (150)
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Main > Automotive > Mechanics > Starter Motor
It's more economical to buy a new high-quality branded starter motor for you car than several used ones. It will last longer and they often have a two year warranty. Overall, if you are keeping the car it will be cheaper, as well as freeing up your time to do other things.
myxlfidian (150)
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Main > Automotive > Mechanics > Panel Beating
To glue rubber components (mudguards, park brake handle rubber flap) in a car, get an automotive silicon sealant. It doesn't look like a conventional glue but when it sets, it bonds much more. Lay it on fairly thick (~3mm) on one surface. You may need to put a stone or other weight on the edges of the bonded rubber or plastic part in order for it to hold. Leave it for several days if you can. Compression is a big part of gluing rubbery components.
myxlfidian (150)
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Main > Automotive > Mechanics > Panel Beating
If you change the doors on your car, you may find they are heavier than your old doors. Inner door reinforcement can change from model to model, but usually the door will still fit ok. You may use slightly more fuel however.
myxlfidian (150)
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Main > Automotive > Economy
Shares in oil companies: Buy shares in oil companies. The dividends you get back as an investor will offset your higher fuel charges.
myxlfidian (150)
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Main > Automotive > Economy
Scooter: Buy a scooter for when you only need to get your physical body somewhere, with say a backpack. For shopping and carrying large things keep your car.
myxlfidian (150)
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Main > Automotive > Mechanics > Panel Beating
If you have some non-removable panels with fairly minor dents in them, they will not be hard to fix yourself. Many dents can be knocked out with a panel beating kit that uses different dollies and hammers. The work is not very hard to do, but does take quite a lot of hard bashing. Get a very large hammer with a heavy head for the most affect. Panel beating of this kind is really about applying very significant force to a caved in part of the chassis in order to move it closer to what it looked like before. You can't do that without fairly great force.
Be prepared to paint many panels you have straightened as it often cracks the paint on the other side.
If you need to bog up a section of metal, you will probably get an orange peel effect on the paint eventually. Consider finding a cheap panel beater instead as prices vary greatly and an unprofessional job will also more often permanently show sratches from shrubs and bushes and not polish well.
myxlfidian (150)
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Main > Automotive > Mechanics > Gearboxes
Change your transmission oil and filter every year to keep the box using quality oil. The oil loses a lot of its quality after about a year.
myxlfidian (150)
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Main > Automotive > Mechanics > Suspension Bushes
Pressing in bushes:
For those who have an 8 or 10 tonne press, if you have small bushes that are hard to press in to rods or arms, press the bush into a tight-fitting pipe hollow (uncapped) pipe first. Then press the bush into the arm through the pipe. The pipe gives you the stability you need to be able to push it right into the rod or arm.
Sockets are very useful for pressing in bushes but you need so very large ones (over 30mm) for larger bushes. If you can get half the lip of a bush into an arm, you then only have to apply your press force to the opposite end of the bush to that which is already sunken or pressed into the arm, in order to get the whole bush in.
Always file down burrs on metal arms and rods before installing bushes as they will cut into the bush and reduce its effectiveness, promoting and early end for them also.
myxlfidian (150)
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Main > Automotive > Mechanics > Shock absorbers
How are my wheels connected to the ground?
Though it may be fairly well-known that shock absorbers and in some cases bushes (usually control or trailing arms) are the single point of contact between all four of your car's wheels and the ground they ride on, the signficance of this is little appreciated. What it means is, if you have non-functioning shocks or struts, or hardened or split bushes, your connection to the road will be reflected in the poor quality of those suspension components. That is, you will have a jostling, bumpy, uncomfortable ride.
Most gas pressurised struts have a maximum warranty of 3 years or 100,000km. After this, if you notice a significant difference in performance, those shocks probably no longer function correctly. If you removed them from the vehicle, you would be able to push the piston rod down with little force, and it would not return to its original elongated position quickly - gradually creeping its way up. It is time to renew these struts or shocks. Springs and synthetic (polyurethane) bushes on the other hand, have much longer lifespans.
You need a wheel alignment if you change rear bushes or shock absorbers. If you do not want to change them, you will use more fuel, have more discomfort and have more collateral wear on parts that are exposed to more shock as a result of the poor suspension. Over time, and with high fuel prices, suspension components will pay for themselves.
myxlfidian (150)
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Main > Automotive > Mechanics > Starter Motor
If your starter motor won't crank, it could also be a dud alternator. If the alternator doesn't show between 13 to 15 volts at the battery, it isn't working fully, which will result in undercharging of your battery, and thereby a reduction in volts to the starter motor when you turn the key.
myxlfidian (150)
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Main > Automotive > Mechanics > Fuel system
Fuel system components: Be especially careful when changing fuel system parts. If you already have an electric fuel pump in the tank, do not install a manual fuel pump at the cylinder head (with an arm into the camshaft) as you will waste fuel (losing up to 80km per 60 litre tank). Use the original fuel cannister (without the pump arm) supplied with the vehicle when it came out of the factory.
myxlfidian (150)
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Main > Automotive > Mechanics > Engine mounts
For general Automotive Sealants, use Sikaflex-227. It's cheaper and is designed for car use. Sikaflex-220 mentioned above is more expensive and heavy duty, and thus more suited to engine mounts where density and strength is more important. Sikaflex have different sealants for windscreens, automotive panels, and general adhesive/sealant uses. Remember to get a nozzle with the sealant tube (the type used with a gun). Instructions for use are on the internet site mentioned on the tube, not on the tube itself.
myxlfidian (150)
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Main > Automotive > Mechanics > Suspension Bushes
Rear Trailing Arm Bushes
The only point of contact your car has with the ground is it's four wheels. And half of those wheels are attached to one steel bar - the rear beam axle, torsion bar or differential. And that rear axle is often held onto the chassis or body of the car by no more than a half a dozen rubbers, or suspension bushes. So it stands to reason that if those rubbers are old, hard, cracked, brittle or in some kind of petrification, 50% of your contact with the road will have the exact same feel as the adjectives I've used to describe those dysfunctional bushes. This is not just speculation, it's a reality I've experienced myself.
The solution is, replace your rear lower trailing arm bushes, panhard rod bushes, and rear suspension units with new components - but don't forget to use polyurethane or other synthetic bushes instead of rubber, for increased durability and performance.
Having done this recently on a 20-year-old car, I can tell you that with decent front suspension components, it revolutionises the car's feel on the road, and definitely saves fuel costs by around 30%. But you will need a 10-tonne hydraulic press to do this job yourself, so a DYI is only recommended for the well equipped and well assisted, because the rear beam axle is too cumbersome and heavy for one person to position on the press, while pushing bushes in and out of it.
Also, ensure you grease not only the outside of the bushes but also it's bevel, inside, crush tube outer wall and the parts of the chassis where the bushes make contact (i.e. the metal brackets or housings welded to the chassis that hold the trailing arms or panhard rod). It may be necessary to regrease all of these parts every three years or so depending on whether you notice a performance degradation or stiffening of the rear suspension.
myxlfidian (150)
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Main > Automotive > Mechanics > Tools
A very valuable part of a car tool catalogue is containers. You at least need an oil pan to drain out old oil and a jerry can to store coolant for reuse.
myxlfidian (150)
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Main > Automotive > Mechanics > Gearboxes
When you change a gearbox, you have to remove and replace the left and right constant velocity joints (CV joints or driveshafts). You should get a wheel alignment after reassembly. You should also get a wheel alignment after removing lower control arms to replace bushes and balljoints, or replacing tie rod ends. Same goes with replacing front shock absorbers or struts.
Some companies offer front and rear wheel alignment. Unless you have just changed your rear shock absorbers, the rear part is just a way for them to get double the money for the job.
myxlfidian (150)
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Main > Automotive > Mechanics > Gearboxes
When you are going up a hill you normally take on a warm engine in drive (D), switch down to Low (L) or 2nd (2) gear when the engine is cold. Cold engine don't run in drive very well.
myxlfidian (150)
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Main > Automotive > Mechanics > Fuel system
Pump it up: When you can, walk. If you can't walk, cycle. And if you can't cycle, try public transport. But if you have to use your car, make sure to keep your tyres properly inflated. It is estimated that up to 80% of tyres are underinflated, which can increase fuel consumption, and therefore also emissions, by up to 5% - as well as increasing wear and tear.
myxlfidian (150)
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Main > Automotive > Mechanics > Panel Beating
Painting: Do not paint in rainy or overcast conditions, even when you are undercover. The increased moisture in the air is bad for the paint, which dries better in drier weather.
For aluminium surfaces, use an etch primer paint before a primer surfacer paint. It adheres to the metal better.
myxlfidian (150)
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Main > Automotive > Mechanics > Oil and other fluids
Oil storage and disposal: Always store old oil in oil containers that used to have new oil in them, so always keep them. That oil is recyclable at public garbage dumps - but you will have to pour it into the used oil drum. This is the only way to legally and safely dispose of used oil.
myxlfidian (150)
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Main > Automotive > Mechanics > Oil and other fluids
Changing oil: For a medium-sized car, every four(4) months, or three(3) times a year is recommended. Change the filter every second time, or once every eight(8) months. When you pour the used oil into an old oil container, it will tell you how much oil you took out of the car. That is the correct amount to put back in, then run the engine for 5 minutes, wait 15 minutes and recheck. Top up as needed. Too much oil causes as many engine problems as too little, in fact it is very dangerous for engine functioning on many cars.
Change the air filter once a year and fuel filter once every 18 months. Power steering fluid and gearbox fluid should be drained and renewed every 12-18 months maximum. Oil is an organic compound that loses its viscosity and other properties in around that timeframe. You will extend the life of your transmission and improve steering performance if you do this.
Always remember that a certain amount of oil loss is normal in all cars, but it should be very minimal, about 100ml every 2-3 weeks at the most. Anything more than that indicates oil leaks either internally within the cylinder head (valve stem seals and/or valve guides) or externally. Rubber oil seals do not last as long as polyurethane and other synthetics. Rubber is not anywhere near as good an oil resistor over time. Always use an oil and compression resistant liquid gasket sealant when installing a new head gasket. It will save oil leaks.
Note: Of course, head gaskets should never be coated fully in sealant - they are one of the few gaskets that aren't. Use the sealant on the timing cover area, especially the section where it joins to the engine block, and any other thin sections. The main block to head area must have no sealant whatsoever - the seal is achieved through compression in that central area (about 90% of the total joining area). It's the narrow, thin sections at each end, and some of the curved sections around the ignition chambers, that need the sealant to make up for their weaknesses in containing oil.
myxlfidian (150)
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Main > Automotive > Mechanics > Oil and other fluids
Gerabox oil: Critical as you can lose an entire gearbox if you drive around for a fairly short time with a heavy leak. Check it weekly. Sometimes you have to cycle through the automatic gears while idling and on a hot engine, slip it into neutral and check then. When cold, the level will be lower on the dipstick (look for the "Cold" lettering on it) but should still show something on the dipstick.
To drain, remove the pan. Refill and renew the filter every 12-18 months. Push a plastic tube into a small narrow funnel to create an easy filling device. If there is evidence of gearbox oil present on the box, you may have too loose nuts on the pan or worn circular oil seals where the driveshafts go in. It is unlikely you will need a change of the main housing to body gasket but it can deteriorate also.
Note: Many gearboxes have driveshafts that have a "C" Clip or circlip-like clip on the end of the shaft that goes into the gearbox. This clip keeps the driveshaft or CV Joint from popping too far out of the gearbox while driving. It can be hard to install a CV Joint because of this clip (use a large hammer on the other end of the shaft, protected by a small piece of wood. If you do not use the C Clip, or it becomes distorted or breaks, you will fairly rapidly lose most of your gearbox oil as the driveshaft comes so far out of the box that oil is not prevented from leaking from it in that area. Make sure you get exactly the right clip (you may have to go to a wrecker or gearbox specialist) and immediately install it to the driveshaft to solve this problem.
myxlfidian (150)
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Main > Automotive > Mechanics > Rear Window Demister/Defogger
If the tab breaks off the copper grid, buy a full repair kit (Rear Window Defogger Repair Kit) that has both a tab adhesive and gridline repair items (Permatex and Loctite manufacture them). The tab's adhesive is replaceable with the supplied conductive/adhesive mixture, and there is a seperate grid line repair fluid. Allow plenty of time to set and do not fit the tab with the wire attached or without sanding and preparing it with the activator pad supplied. If no grid comes off with the tab, you won't need to sand the tab.
A critical part of this work is that you can see no light around the tab connecting surfaces to the grid, after it has been glued. If you see light all around each tab to grid surface, there will be no conductivity to the grid as a whole, and the entire demister will not work at all. Ensure you place the tab over a different area of grid than that which you removed it from, so that it has full contact.
myxlfidian (150)
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Main > Automotive > Mechanics > Waxing
How to clean, cut and polish and wax your car.
Note: Do all of this outside direct sunlight, in a garage or other covered area.
1) Use car wash on an already rinsed down car, with two buckets, clean water and a rinse bucket. The rinse bucket is for the used sponge, the clean water with carwash fluid for redipping after you have rinsed the just used sponge. Don't use one bucket.
2) Wait for the car to dry and use Cut and Polish on the whole car. For older cars, use a lighter grade Cut and Polish, or you will wear down the paint too much. Use the supplied circular sponges to work in the chemical. Then buff it off when it dries to a white haze. Do not allow it to dry (i.e. sit there for longer than 2 minutes).
3) Wait for the car to dry and then use Liquid Polish on the car, spreading it with a clean rag. Do not allow to dry. Almost instantly, buff off the white haze with a buffing cloth. The longer you wait the harder it is to buff out, but you cannot buff wax that has not dried at all to a white haze. Be weary of cheap electric buffing machines as they may not be good enough for a job as involved as hard buffing of set wax.
5) A week later, cover the waxed areas near any black trim with newspaper and masking tape. Use Black Trim Wax on black trim, and buff when it gets hazy also (it takes much longer than with carwax). Remove the masked off paper only after the black wax has dried (2-3 hours at least).
6) For mudflaps, if they are already peeling away, remove and clean them. When installing them again, use a Silastic Automotive Sealant (Dow Corning) and clamps to hold them in overnight (as well as the original bolts).
myxlfidian (150)
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Main > Automotive > Mechanics > Window tinting
Research tints before you buy. The cheaper ones available in Malaysia etc (though they may claim to be made in the USA) often get bubbles under the surface within months of installation, rendering them useless. You can blow hundreds this way. Try to get it done by a car tinter that does dealer's cars en masse and/or obviously expensive cars. Avoid tinters that are based in areas distant from the city.
myxlfidian (150)
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Main > Automotive > Mechanics > Window tinting
Not only could a tint be of a low quality, but the installation could be so bad that the tinting gets bubbles under it and is useless within months.
myxlfidian (150)
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Main > Automotive > Mechanics > Write-offs (repair or destroy?)
If you are hit by a car which does more damage than the car is worth, panel beaters will tell you its a write-off. They will say you should junk the car and use it for parts, or put the good parts in another car.
If you haven't done much work on your car in the last 4 to 5 years, they are probably right. But if you have invested over the price of repair in parts, don't listen to them.
For example, if you have put in $6,000 in parts and maintenance within the last 3 years, and the repair is $3,000, it makes no sense to destroy the car and take it for parts. The time you would spend putting in parts in a bought car of the same model and colour would not be worth it. Also, if you have done a lot of rust repair on your car, that is very time consuming (usually most of the day for one job).
When you factor in the time involved in getting parts out of your write-off and then into a bought car of the same make and model, it is double the work you put in originally. So if your car has a high degree of new (<3 years) parts, get it repaired instead of using it for parts in a replacement car. The time you save will outweight the few thousand it cost.
The exception to this would be if you found a car of the exact same type (make model body colour) that had work done on it that your write off didn't. For example, say you spent $2,500 on the same car and it had a rebuilt engine, new front struts, electronic fuel injection, rebuilt gearbox/CV joints or a few of those things, then it would be worth buying the car as long as it didn't have much rust. Rust is too time consuming to redo. That way, when you transfer all the other parts (i.e. radiator, rear shocks, console) you can deduct the work that has already been done by the mere act of buying the second car.
myxlfidian (150)
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Main > Automotive > Mechanics > Write-offs (repair or destroy?)
Insurance claims: If an insurance company wants to take your write-off, bear in mind that they will
1) Refund your car registration to them
2) Refund your insurance to them
3) Sell the car at auction or charge you a lot to buy it back (bad if it had quite a few good parts)
4) Charge you a hefty excess ($500+)
5) Have already charged you full comprehensive insurance (hundreds per year)
6) Give you a low value for the car, not reflecting any work or additions done to it if you did
That's how they make their money. Consider not even reporting it as you may be better off depending on the insured value.
myxlfidian (150)
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