Main > Sport > Cycling > Mechanics
Save money by fixing bike issues yourself.
kellyjones00 (593)
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Main > Sport > Cycling > Mechanics > Powertrain
Replacing chain: replace at the same time as rear cluster/cassette. The chain-length is correct when it fits over largest front and rear chainrings, plus one inch. Use an SRAM power-link (simpler).
kellyjones00 (593)
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Main > Sport > Cycling > Mechanics > Crankset
Bottom bracket: choose sealed type for longer life and less fuss. The LHS locknut of a sealed bottom bracket unscrews first, c-cl; then RHS unscrews cl the entire bracket. Keep threads clean and greased well.
kellyjones00 (593)
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Main > Sport > Cycling > Mechanics > Brakes
Squeaky brakes: rims are greasy. Don't use degreaser to clean. Use spit.
kellyjones00 (593)
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Main > Sport > Cycling > Mechanics > Powertrain
Chain care: dry lube normally, wet lube (oil) in wet conditions. Try to keep clean to prolong its lifespan.
kellyjones00 (593)
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Main > Sport > Cycling > Mechanics > Powertrain
Gear adjustment: First degrease, clean, and re-lube all moving parts of power-train. The key is first to set cable length per derailleur, then chain-guide position of front derailleur, then high and low maximum positions of each derailleur. Other important tips: keep the bike upright, not upside-down; watch that the chain runs square on each ring; put fine adjustment screws at the end of each cable end into lowest tension (screwed in cl all the way).
kellyjones00 (593)
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Main > Sport > Cycling > Mechanics > Brakes
V-Brake adjustment: First remove brake pads, keeping washers in their original positions, and whittle off detritus and hardened grease from the pads. The key to brake adjustment is spring tension. Each brake has a hardened wire acting as a spring, that slots into one of three positions. Get that position right for best tension. Also make sure
fine adjustment screws at handlebar end of cable are screwed in cl all the way first.
kellyjones00 (593)
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Main > Sport > Cycling > Mechanics
Cables: always crimp the ends to stop fraying.
kellyjones00 (593)
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Main > Sport > Cycling > Mechanics
Don't wash bike using high water-pressure, as a jet of water into bearings (wheel hubs, headset, bottom bracket, pedals) can dislodge grease and force grit in.
kellyjones00 (593)
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Main > Sport > Cycling > Mechanics
Keep metal parts slightly oily. WD-40 (water dispersant) works well.
kellyjones00 (593)
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Main > Sport > Cycling > Mechanics > Tools
Complete repair kit: rear cluster removal tool, chainwhip, crank removal tool, 14mm socket tool (crank bolt), bottom bracket removal tool, 25-30mm shifting spanner, hub spanners, small pair of very sharp diagonal cutters (cables and crimps), 4-6mm hex keys, fine Phillips-head screwdrivers (handebar part-covers), floor pump, tyre levers, spokes (long, short), tyres, degreaser, water dispersant, lithium grease, oil, wax, toothbrushes, rags, socket set, headset spanner.
Handy travel repair kit: hand pump, tyre levers, patches, sandpaper, rubber cement, spare tube, rag, multitool, and a waterproof container with spare chain links, crimps, hex-bolts, spoke key, spoke nipples, a few spare spokes, boot, gaffer tape, pocketknife.
kellyjones00 (593)
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Main > Sport > Cycling > Mechanics > Crankset
Pedal removing: a way to remember the threads, is, when using a shifting spanner, turn the spanner towards the back of the bike, over the axle, like throwing over-arm.
kellyjones00 (593)
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Main > Sport > Cycling > Mechanics
Rear wheel removing: Shift chain onto the smallest cog (highest gear), so the chain can then slip off that little cog as the wheel is removed. It may help also to lift the chain off the cog with your finger and over towards the axle nut, as the wheel is slipped out of the drop-outs.
kellyjones00 (593)
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Main > Sport > Cycling > Mechanics > Powertrain
Straightening a bent derailleur hanger: one suggestion is to carefully thread the hanger onto a wheel axle nut, then carefully press the hanger against a hard surface (like concrete) using the wheel as a brace. It might work. I had no success with this technique. Hangers are also harder to replace than most bike parts.
kellyjones00 (593)
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Main > Sport > Cycling > Mechanics > Tools
Allen Keys: Virtually everything on a bike can be tightened with Allen Keys. But most people buy the standard length ones, which provide little leverage. When you buy a set, spend a fraction more for the really long handled ones. They are much easier to make a bolt tight with, and to loosen them.
myxlfidian (150)
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Main > Sport > Cycling > Mechanics > Building
Wheel-building: The rear wheel needs to be stronger than the front, in most cases. This means the number of spokes is better 36/32 than 36/36. See link
Panoculus (40)
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Main > Sport > Cycling > Mechanics > Tools
Tools/equipment for touring: Do a complete bicycle check several weeks before departure, to reduce the chance of mechanical problems. If cycling unsupported into remote areas, and there is no or very slow postal service, you will need to carry all tools, and spare parts.
Other tools / equipment for longer tours, missing from the first tip on this page: spare brake pads, chain-break tool, chain lubricant, front wheel bearing ring, rear wheel bearing ring, rear derailleur hanger, spare chain, fast-release chain link, spare bottom bracket (sealed), spare cluster.
kellyjones00 (593)
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Main > Sport > Cycling > Mechanics
Fixing a flat tube while exposed to heavy rain and without shelter: just switch the tube with a new one. Don't try to repair it.
kellyjones00 (593)
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Main > Sport > Cycling > Mechanics
After cutting the cable housing to fit, slip a sturdy metal cap over the cut end. This will stop it being compressed under pressure when sitting in the braze-ons, and possibly crimping shut onto the shifting cable.
kellyjones00 (593)
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