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All  |   Discussion (0)Write-offs (repair or destroy?)

If you are hit by a car which does more damage than the car is worth, panel beaters will tell you its a write-off. They will say you should junk the car and use it for parts, or put the good parts in another car.

If you haven't done much work on your car in the last 4 to 5 years, they are probably right. But if you have invested over the price of repair in parts, don't listen to them.

For example, if you have put in $6,000 in parts and maintenance within the last 3 years, and the repair is $3,000, it makes no sense to destroy the car and take it for parts. The time you would spend putting in parts in a bought car of the same model and colour would not be worth it. Also, if you have done a lot of rust repair on your car, that is very time consuming (usually most of the day for one job).

When you factor in the time involved in getting parts out of your write-off and then into a bought car of the same make and model, it is double the work you put in originally. So if your car has a high degree of new (<3 years) parts, get it repaired instead of using it for parts in a replacement car. The time you save will outweight the few thousand it cost.

The exception to this would be if you found a car of the exact same type (make model body colour) that had work done on it that your write off didn't. For example, say you spent $2,500 on the same car and it had a rebuilt engine, new front struts, electronic fuel injection, rebuilt gearbox/CV joints or a few of those things, then it would be worth buying the car as long as it didn't have much rust. Rust is too time consuming to redo. That way, when you transfer all the other parts (i.e. radiator, rear shocks, console) you can deduct the work that has already been done by the mere act of buying the second car.   myxlfidian (150)

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Insurance claims: If an insurance company wants to take your write-off, bear in mind that they will

1) Refund your car registration to them
2) Refund your insurance to them
3) Sell the car at auction or charge you a lot to buy it back (bad if it had quite a few good parts)
4) Charge you a hefty excess ($500+)
5) Have already charged you full comprehensive insurance (hundreds per year)
6) Give you a low value for the car, not reflecting any work or additions done to it if you did

That's how they make their money. Consider not even reporting it as you may be better off depending on the insured value.   myxlfidian (150)

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Rear panel damage: If someone does substantial damage to your rear-end, such that unremovable panels (quarter, beaver, boot floor, chassis rail panels) are irrepairable, here's what to do. Find a wrecker who will give you a "rear cut" of the same model car as yours, and preferably the same colour. They will use oxyacetylene to sever the whole back of a car (from across the back seat) which you can deliver with a trailer to a panel beater so they have the (expensive or discontinued) panels they need to fix your car.

Be sure your panel beater is for this option however and check their charges for removing individual panels from the rear cut. It will need to have spot welds removed as well as some mechanical work (removal from the rear axle etc).

When transporting the rear half of the car, it will have its rear axle, rear muffler and shocks/disc rotors/calipers still connected to it. You can use a trailer but the width will mean the rear cut sits on top of the trailers sides. Use a set of four ratchet straps to secure it for the deilvery.

Try to remove (and later refit) as much of the trim, lights, bumper/tow bars and other fittings as you can as part of your repair with the panel beater. It can save over a thousand dollars off your quote alone if you do this yourself with their prior agreement.   myxlfidian (150)

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