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Main > Automotive > Mechanics > Engine mounts
Reinforcing engine mounts by filling the gaps with polyurethane sealant (i.e. Siklaflex 220) makes the engine mounts much firmer, while still allowing enough give to not cause any problems. Also, they don't break. Standard rubber seals should be insulated this way because the small to middle-sized ones usually crack within six months, even when bought new. Once cracks develop in any bushing, its not long before they break completely.

A broken front engine mount/torque stay (360 degrees broken so that a loose rubber section floated in the middle of the mount) cost me a gearbox once. It made the front area looser and shook off vital drive plate to torque converter bolts which made the torque converter spin loosely in the gearbox housing, cutting a hole through it over time. I later threw out the box because torque converter gearbox oil would leak out of the hole, but it turns out I could have just replaced the housing cover and continued to use that expensive and otherwise good gearbox.   [guest]

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Main > Automotive > Mechanics > Engine mounts
Genuine or Aftermarket?

The eternal dilemma of the car part buyer, but particularly critical with engine mounts. The reason is the quality of the rubber. You might say why should I buy a genuine mount that is 6 or 7 times more expensive than an aftermarket copy, but when the genuine lasts 10 years and the aftermarket 6 months, the economics become pretty clear. Try to get an actual grade for the rubber quality because when something supports an engine, this is critical in its durability - there is a scale for rubber strength. Do not be surprised if you don't get more than six months from a cheap aftermarket rubber mount.

One of the problems is that if you try to go for polyurethane, it will not absorb vibrations as well as rubber, transferring more shock to the chassis back to the engine itself. Polyurethane engine mounts are only viable for high-powered engines that need greater tethering or where an engine mount is too small for what it supports, due to poor original design. By that I mean a small diameter mount (<8cm) supporting a 2.6 litre engine for example. These will often break years before the larger side mounts (>15cm diameter and with thicker rubber).   myxlfidian (150)

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Main > Automotive > Mechanics > Engine mounts
Always leave an engine sitting on at least two engine mounts at all times, regardless of which ones. If you don't, it can be very hard to get it back on all four mounts. Never idle a car unless it is sitting on three engine mounts.   myxlfidian (150)

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Main > Automotive > Mechanics > Engine mounts
For general Automotive Sealants, use Sikaflex-227. It's cheaper and is designed for car use. Sikaflex-220 mentioned above is more expensive and heavy duty, and thus more suited to engine mounts where density and strength is more important. Sikaflex have different sealants for windscreens, automotive panels, and general adhesive/sealant uses. Remember to get a nozzle with the sealant tube (the type used with a gun). Instructions for use are on the internet site mentioned on the tube, not on the tube itself.   myxlfidian (150)

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